Xbox repair manual pdf
Page 23 You will probably need to pinch the top and bottom together and shift them back and fourth to get the screw holes to line up perfectly. Finish off with the rear screws, re-assemble the Xbox and hope you made things better rather than worse. Be careful in there, there is an exposed power supply with some big cans capacitors on it, they can hold electricity for years and are designed to dump completely in one shot.
Page 25 Once all six screws are removed, flip the box upright and grab the sides and shake it a little bit and the bottom should drop away from the cover.
I find this is done most easily by putting the Xbox in my lap. Page 25 of Page 26 Step 4 - Drive removal, there are 3 screws total holding in both drives. First remove the one for the hard drive; it is located under the IDE cable. Two others are on either side of the front of the DVD drive.
Page 27 Removing the power cord from the motherboard. Most sites tell you to use a pliers to remove the power plug as it is in there pretty good. I personally pull on the wires themselves, I risk yanking a wire out of the crimp in the socket, if I screw one up I am willing to repair it.
Use your best judgment, the key is to grab half of the wires and pull evenly on all of them at a 45 degree angle, to raise one side of the plug first and then the other, it will not come out straight up.
Page 28 Step 6 - Eleven screws on the motherboard Remove them all and be careful not to scratch the surface of the board with the driver. Step 7 - Board removal You will need to disconnect the yellow wires coming from the fan, power and reset switches and also the connections to the USB game controller ports, the USB daughter board itself can be left in place or removed.
The goal is to remove the front panel without tearing the whole Xbox apart. You would need to do this if you were planning to paint it, install different color LED's in the power switch or just replace the power switch. This can be accomplished while the cover is off but the rest of the Xbox is assembled. Page Thomson Xbox Laser Installation The sides of the front panel clamp to the bottom of the Xbox with some good force so you have to pull twist and push harder than you might expect.
Using the screw driver or other prying device attempt to move the front panel and the bottom plastic away from each other, moving the inside portion inward is easier than bending the front clamp outward but a little of each should get the job done. Page 31 Next we remove the four screws circled in green above. These are in there tight, it is ESSENTIAL to use a good Phillips 0 screw driver and use plenty of down force to see that they do not strip out if a cheap or well used screw driver is used with not enough down force it is likely to skip and hole out the inside of the screw where the driver grips, so use a good driver and be careful.
Page 32 Re-assembly is pretty much the same, remove the rail from the old laser, install it in the new one, and put it back in place making sure the gear is fitting into place.
See that the bottom rail fits in place between the two "bumps" How to describe some of this better I do not know, well as always plenty of pictures to tell the story. When it is below the tray as pictured below, slide the tray all the way out, there are two tabs circled in green that will stop the tray from coming all the way out, depress these and completely remove the tray.
Page 35 Another common point of failure is the little nub on the white actuator circled in green on the right, that little baby needs to fit into the trough on the bottom of the tray outlined in green in the next photo. Also note the teeth on the far left of the actuator, it looks like there are some missing right?
No, that's normal. Page 37 To completely remove the tray, lift the catch on the right side of the drive. Now you should have a good view of the laser assembly note that on the Phillips drive there is a black gear rail that sometimes pops out of place and the drive begins showing Disc is Dirty or Damaged errors. Page 38 Flip the drive over to remove the bottom cover. Note the black tabs that are circled, these often bind and make the tray difficult to remove.
Push those in first then remove the tray. Now we should have a good view of the bottom PCB, note the screws circled in green, these must be removed only for total disassembly, and if you are installing a new laser it is not necessary to remove the screws. Page 39 Now all the cables have been detached Take the end of the circuit board near the rear of the drive and flip it toward the front, this will reveal one more cord to detach. Page 39 of Page 40 Now the laser assembly is exposed from the bottom of the drive.
As well as the top If you wanted to try cleaning the lens and mirror this would be as far as you need to go. Blast the optics with compressed air attempting to direct the dust away from the lens top and mirror bottom Use a clean Q-tip and lens cleaner to clean the optics, you want to achieve a streak free surface.
Page 41 Push them in the direction of the arrows and they will pop out and the laser assembly can be removed Now you should have a pile of parts that looks something like this Reassembly is the reverse. Install the laser by pushing the rubber dampeners into their sockets. Connect the circuit board to the white four wire connector on the chassis, lay the circuit board over the chassis and install the four black screws.
Page 43 Removing the solder is best accomplished by wiping a clean 15Watt or other low temperature soldering iron across the pads, be very careful!!! Remove four Phillips 1 screws One of them is under the warranty void if seal damaged sticker Remove the top cover. Page 45 The rail is held in place by a small metal spring loaded tab. The metal is in the shape of a number seven 7 the small leg presses against the plastic and holds the rail from escaping; to remove we need to elevate the metal tab over the plastic so it can slide to the left.
Page 46 Getting the tab over the plastic is a two handed operation. I used two small regular precision screw drivers to lift and one to leverage to the side. In this photo you can see the tab is lifted over the plastic riser, and held in place by a screw driver, the rail can now be lifted up. In this photo the rail has been freed but the front is still attached, pulling the rail about a quarter inch back releases the front. Page 47 Now that the gear and rail has been swapped over to the new laser it is time to re-install the laser and rail.
Start by fitting the laser U shaped notch back into the lower rail in this photo. Next insert the top rail into the standoff at the top right in this picture. Page 48 Using a precision screw driver, depress the tab so it is below the plastic, you may want to also replace the glue that holds the metal in its place.
Reassemble and install in your Xbox! Page 48 of The top and bottom covers come off easily To slide out the tray either use the emergency eject from the front of the drive or flip it over and slide this white thing in the direction of the arrow. Page 50 Removing the DVD tray, two clips need to be depressed on either side of the front of the DVD to allow its removal If you are having tray eject issues the nub on the white thing circled below has most likely jumped out of the trough it fits in on the bottom of the tray, when reassembling the tray be sure this fits back into the trough on the bottom of the tray Removing the laser assembly, remove the two screws where the blue circle is in this photo Page 51 This is a view of the bottom of the drive and you can see the grommet on the right has been removed from its "C" shaped holder.
The grommet on the left still needs to come out! With the laser loose I find this is a good time to remove the circuit board to gain easy access to the ribbon cables. Page 52 Re-assembly - Install the laser assembly back into the chassis, put the shaft of a small screwdriver through the hole in the center of the rubber grommet and push it into place Note the large headed screws on the left in this picture have been installed Lay the PCB on top of the chassis and reconnect two ribbon cables Page 52 of Page 53 The PCB is held in place by two back plastic clips circled below, press the board into place Flip the drive into the upright position.
On the top, install the ribbon cable that attaches to the laser. Page 55 For the purposes of this tutorial I have removed the ribbon cables to get better shots of the laser, this is not necessary for adjusting the pot Looking at the Pot we see 3 contacts. Position the drive so the single contact is on your left, the one to measure from on the right is the lower one.
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